Dining, Food & Wine Article |
Bed Hopping
One ocean, six distinct tastes.
- Illustration by Joe McKendry.
We joined B&G Oysters’ chef de cuisine Greg Reeves and general manager Justin Morel to sample a selection of Bay State bivalves. What a difference a few miles can make.
>>WELLFLEET
Pangea Wellfleet vs. Pat Woodbury Wellfleet
These Wellfleets from two different purveyors were large with clean, elongated shells. The Pangea oysters had an initial “juicy burst of salt,” according to Reeves, and a mineral finish, while the Woodburys were meatier, less salty, with a totally clean finish. Our pick: Pat Woodbury Wellfleet.
>>DUXBURY
Island Creek vs. Duxbury Jade
As the name suggests, the Duxbury Jade had a “pesto color” shell, compared with the Island Creek’s white and brown shell. The Island Creek oysters had a superior taste—“clean with hints of kelp and seaweed,” said Morel—and were plumper and sweeter than the Jades, with a “surprisingly long” finish. Our pick: Island Creek.
>>MID-CAPE
Wianno vs. Barnstable’s Beach Point
Harvested just eight miles apart, these two could come from different planets. The Wiannos were medium size with a salty start and a clean, sweet finish; the Beach Points were huge and meaty—it took three or four bites to get each one down—and the flesh was firm with a strong briny flavor. Our pick: Wianno.
>>WELLFLEET
Pangea Wellfleet vs. Pat Woodbury Wellfleet
These Wellfleets from two different purveyors were large with clean, elongated shells. The Pangea oysters had an initial “juicy burst of salt,” according to Reeves, and a mineral finish, while the Woodburys were meatier, less salty, with a totally clean finish. Our pick: Pat Woodbury Wellfleet.
>>DUXBURY
Island Creek vs. Duxbury Jade
As the name suggests, the Duxbury Jade had a “pesto color” shell, compared with the Island Creek’s white and brown shell. The Island Creek oysters had a superior taste—“clean with hints of kelp and seaweed,” said Morel—and were plumper and sweeter than the Jades, with a “surprisingly long” finish. Our pick: Island Creek.
>>MID-CAPE
Wianno vs. Barnstable’s Beach Point
Harvested just eight miles apart, these two could come from different planets. The Wiannos were medium size with a salty start and a clean, sweet finish; the Beach Points were huge and meaty—it took three or four bites to get each one down—and the flesh was firm with a strong briny flavor. Our pick: Wianno.
Originally published in Boston magazine, October 2006
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