The 50 Best Restaurants 2009

43. Bistro 5

Score: 54.80
High: Yelp **** 1/2 Low: Boston 3.25

Chef Vittorio Ettore has earned a cult following with his lively ingredient combos, such as acorn squash tortelloni with cabrales and pears. The Medford restaurant is expensive for the suburbs; it’s also waaay better than Bertucci’s.

ORDER THIS: The veal Milanese.

44. Grill 23

Score: 54.77
High: Herald *** 1/2 Low: Globe ** 1/2
Our score: 3.75

Grill 23 has been a Best of Boston steakhouse pick seven times in the past 10 years, thanks to both its classic cuts and its more exotic offerings, all of them tender and buttery. The bar pours a tip-top martini.

ORDER THIS: Dry-aged prime New York strip.

45. East Coast Grill

Score: 54.62
High: Globe *** 1/2 Low: Boston 3.5

Owner Chris Schlesinger specializes in big south-of-the-border flavors. You’ll find some of the area’s freshest fish (and the tangiest barbecue, too) at his Cambridge flagship. The kitchen is terrifically steady, though we’d love to see more new tricks.

ORDER THIS: Buffalo-fried Gulf shrimp.

46. Estragon

Score: 54.29
High: Phoenix **** Low: Globe **
Our score: 3.75

Little adventures abound at this tapas spot, where tongue, cod cheeks, and sweetbreads are staples. The squeamish can take refuge in delish potato-filled tortillas and croquettes.

ORDER THIS: The duo de croquetas.

47. Union Bar and Grille

Score: 52.86
High: Phantom 89 Low: Chowhound ***
Our score: 3.25

Once Gaslight opened and Aquitaine installed a hotshot new chef de cuisine, their sibling, Union, fell off our radar. A shame, since comfort food this nicely done is hard to come by.

ORDER THIS: Potato gnocchi with duck confit and grilled radicchio.

48. Beacon Hill Bistro

Score: 52.57
High: Herald A Low: Globe ***
Our score: 3.75

When chef Jason Bond took the helm in 2007 (following a stint as chef de cuisine at No. 9 Park), he turned a charming little inn with an adequate dining room into a destination restaurant. The food is mostly French, fully of-the-season, and not to be missed.

ORDER THIS: The house-made charcuterie, a Bond specialty.