Man Food: The BBQ Brisket Sandwich at Abigail's

The BBQ brisket sandwich at Abigail’s. Photo by Katie Barszcz.

If you’re searching for a sloppy sandwich that causes sticky barbecue sauce to drip down your beard, the BBQ brisket sandwich at Abigail’s ($11) is not for you. But I’m quite happy with the more refined version here, which fits the warm bistro atmosphere of the Kendall Square spot. In fact, I’ll go as far as to say that this sandwich—loaded up with brisket, a runny fried egg, melty American cheese, and sauteed peppers and onions—is a home run in its own right.

The brisket meat is as tender as it gets, methodically chopped instead of sliced, pulled or shredded like one might expect. But this preparation works in its favor, as the chopped meat covers more landscape on the soft sesame seed bun, ensuring a meaty mouthful in every delicious bite. I’m used to being overwhelmed with smoke and sauce when it comes to brisket sandwiches, but in this instance the brisket meat itself is the stud here—I just wish there was a little more meat to play off of the dominant flavor of the sweet peppers. I’m a sucker for a fried egg on top of pretty much anything, and the perfectly-cooked egg atop the brisket oozed into the bun and onto the plate—where it was a great dip of sorts for the well-prepared French fries.

While the BBQ brisket sandwich won’t make you re-think barbecue, everything works; it’s satisfying bite after bite. Enjoy it for what it is, and you’ll be happy. After all, isn’t that what good food is all about?

(Abigail’s, 291 3rd Street, Cambridge, 617-945-9086)

For more online food coverage, find us on Twitter at @ChowderBoston