88-Word Valentine to Winter Rosés
Nothing wrong with light, vibrant rosés enjoyed in their youthful prime. But this one goes out to all you blushing beauties with a little bottle age, whose brash, adolescent fruits have begun to fade, revealing a wealth of latent nuance (mineral, butterscotch, grenadine…) complex enough to pair with cold-climate fare. Yes, you winter rosés are hard to come by in this pink-means-summer town, but I’ll seek you out all year. Two wintry winners: 2010 Massa Vecchia Rosato ($67, the Blue Room) and 2011 Domaine Ilarria Rosé ($40, Oleana).