Best of Boston

Chef Tim Maslow casually explodes the crudo genre at his innovative South End izakaya, playing at a level few others can match. The brilliance is in the deft balancing of bold contrasts. Charred-skin mackerel with pungent truffle ponzu cries out for a palate-resetting respite—then gets it, from feathery radish sprouts. Velvety scallops with sweet blood orange are nudged back to savory by fiery-citrus yuzu kosho. Norm-core tuna tartare this is (definitely) not.