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Once upon a time, Seth Greenberg reigned over a glittery club scene that upended the bar-hopping habits of stodgy old Boston. Now the prodigal impresario has returned. Can he bring that magic back?
Twenty years after Olives exploded onto the scene in a hail of garnishes and shaved truffle, its celebrity-chef founder has gone from golden boy to tourist-feeding hack in the eyes of Boston’s food establishment. Problem is, we’ve been judging him by the wrong measures all along.
Boston’s already got a glut of steakhouses, and now even cutting-edge chefs are going into the meat-and-potatoes business. What’s driving the beef bonanza, and what it means for our hard-won reputation as a great dining town.