Best of Boston

<p>The first few months, recalls maître d’hôtel Pietro Valentini, were discouraging. Although the kitchen, under the direction of consultant Louis Outhier and head chef Jean Georges Vongerichten, was turning out exemplary innovative French cuisine (Valentini’s description), the Hotel Lafayette’s Downtown Crossing locale wasn’t drawing a crowd willing to spend $100 per person for dinner.</p> <p>With the first reviews, that changed. Now, says Valentini, “it’s very strong. We sell out on Saturdays 10 days in advance.” Why? Exceptional clam ravioli, lamb, duck, and lobster, and the best pastries in town. That, and Valentini’s firm, knowledgeable leadership in the dining room.</p> <p>Yes, Le Marquis is expensive. And yes, it’s worth it.</p>