Best of Boston

Boldly layered flavors, as in charred calamari with black olive puree and red pepper jus, and imaginative twists on staples, as in fusilli in a parmesan broth with walnuts and sundried tomatoes, make this copper-kitchened restaurant one of the brightest sports in the North End. Charles Draghi and his staff love to cook so much that, for diners who repeatedly order the six-course chef’s choice menu (with accompanying wines), they’ll even ad lib an occasional dish.