Best of Boston

Despite what your chowhound friends tell you, it is not true that the quality of an ethnic restaurant falls as its sanitation scores rise. And it’s certainly not the case at House of Siam, where cream-colored tablecloths, scarlet walls, and golden Buddhas decorate the split-level dining room. The curries are spiced to order (we like the massaman with shrimp), and the wine list is unusually thorough. Settle into a window seat and toast your chicken dang dang with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot.