Best of Boston

Fans of time travel should start peering out the car window halfway down the dirt road to this 18th-century tavern. Upon entering, keep eyes low and to the right (avoiding the buzzkill modern kitchen), and sit at one of the communal tables facing the weathered walls. Exquisitely done cassoulet and pan-roasted seafood perpetuate the historic vibe—if you can ignore the nouvelle complexity of the sauces—while riffs on Asian cuisine tempt those diners keeping it current. The emphasis on fresh, local ingredients, of course, transcends both eras.