Best of Boston

Even after a few million years on the fire, steak as a culinary concept is far from done. For proof, look to the Metropolitan Club, where executive chef and former Todd English majordomo Todd Winer not only finds new ways to deploy beef (a ‘steak and egg’ appetizer using flash-seared Wagyu), but also brings to the table a fascinating variety of cuts and small-farm sourcing (shoulder tender from Idaho, sirloin from Maine). Stone Age types can keep their porterhouse-and-baked-potato lairs—this is a steakhouse for the evolutionary-minded carnivore.