Best of Boston

Long before every trendy restaurant was putting pork-stuffed bao on the bar menu, this Allston stalwart was serving up a (perfectly) traditional version of the Taiwanese specialty: a fluffy steamed bun filled with shreds of tender pork, bitter mustard greens, and a sprinkle of peanuts tossed with sugar for a sweet-salty crunch. These, along with other Taiwanese staples (thick scallion pancakes, plump soup dumplings stuffed with pork and crab roe, and basil-scented eggplant), more than explain why the large dining room is packed with chopstick-wielding diners each night.