Best of Boston

Admittedly, the better story here would have been how an upstart finally dethroned the long-reigning meatery king. But after a budget-straining battery of retrials, we’ve gotta give it up again for this 30-year-old stalwart, thanks mainly to executive chef Jay Murray’s uncanny knack for juggling menu-freshening exploration with a steakhouse’s core mandate: rosy-pink, deeply crusted slabs of cow.