Best of Boston

Every time the kitchen changes hands at Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer’s tiny South End enoteca, we hold our breath. First it was Bissonnette handing over the reins to the talented Meghann Ward; this year marked Ward passing the torch to L’Espalier and Del Posto alum Michael Bergin. And yet somehow, the place never misses a beat. The classic pizzas are still smoky and rich (our new favorite is dotted with spicy globs of ‘nduja sausage); the house pastas are still remarkably creative (see: parsley cavatelli with prosciutto-braised escargot); and the vegetable dishes remain some of the town’s finest (Brussels sprouts smothered in robiola; roasted cauliflower bathed in bagna cauda).