Best of Boston

Boston certainly doesn’t lack for seafood. But Ostra, the splashy brainchild of restaurateur Jamie Mammano, rises above the rest with a bricolage of whole roasted fish and a lobster-laden paella served tableside. It’s not all pomp and grandeur, though: Dishes like grilled local porgy with spicy Marcona-almond romesco showcase a mastery of simple yet elegant flavors.