Best of Boston

It’s the restaurant that launched a thousand meze plates—and it’s still the one to beat. Culinary sorcerer Cassie Piuma infuses warm, traditional flavors with whimsy, whether it’s in pork schnitzel brightened by mustard-and-caper brown butter, escarole, and rosemary za’atar, or burnished quail shish kebabs balanced with earthy walnut sauce and chanterelles. Somewhere in the swirl of those blue lanterns and dim sum–style trays gliding through the dining room, you forget you’re in Somerville and just embrace the magic of it all.