Best of Boston

Shōjō’s “Shadowless” fries combine handcut Russets double-fried in duck fat, mapo tofu tinged with spicy chili, and nacho-cheese sauce built from a gochujang-kimchi base. The clincher? A splash of sriracha aioli. Chef Mark O’Leary says the moniker for this poutine-by-way-of-Chinatown masterpiece comes from a martial-arts term for “peerless.” We won’t disagree.