Best of Boston

When Doretta popped onto the scene, Michael Schlow fans puzzled over the uncharacteristically conservative menu—especially when compared with the fresh takes offered at nearby Pelekasis, Brendan Pelley’s mod-Greek pop-up. So Schlow did what any pro would do: Once Pelley’s temporary gig ended, he scooped him up as chef de cuisine. Together, they’re a Hellenic dream team, slinging a perfectly calibrated mix of impeccable classics (charry lamb chops) and restless stunners (saganaki fondue with Sichuan peppercorns).