Best of Boston

Chef Frank McClelland bristles when L’Espalier gets pigeonholed as French—and it is more haute New England meets Paris, when you think about it. Check the beef from Maine. The gooey Vermont fromages. The scrappy Yankee self-reliance of plating foie gras with fruit from your own organic farm! The duck-for-two stunner, presented whole, comes with sides and a beguiling slice of American large-format je ne sais quoi. Whatever you call it, this gastronomic tour de force blasts into its 40th year rocking A-game sparkle. Tomato, tomate.