Best of Boston

Twelve years after owners Tim and Nancy Cushman proved that Boston was ready to pay $20 a pop for sushi served by jeans-wearing waiters, their restaurant empire has expanded to Manhattan and Mexico City, where a third O Ya location opened in April. That hasn’t stopped the original Leather District location from continuing to crank out the kind of dazzlingly avant-garde raw fish that put them on the map—including umami-bomb nigiri like torched hamachi with banana-pepper mousse.