Best of Boston

Trend-setting and -following South End restaurants continue to come and go with changing tastes, but this cozy, brick-walled neighborhood institution never veers — thank heavens! — from its winning recipe: big plates of chicken Parm and other Italian-American eats, late-night service in the rosy glow of stained-glass lamps, and the pulsing Good Vibes it emanates as both a beloved local haunt and low-key not-but-sorta gay bar.