Best of Boston

White-tablecloth dining is on the wane in Boston as diners gravitate to more-casual, modest formats. But some evenings still call for cosseting service, beautiful food, and rare wines. Amid a sea of steak-frites-slinging bistros, chef Chris Coombs’s Back Bay temple to la gastronomie française still provides an elegant setting — and gorgeous renderings of French classics like foie gras and roast duck — for celebrations of romance, round-number birthdays, or self-care splurges.