Best of Boston

In the wrong hands, a ticketed, dinner-as-theater concept could come off as pretentious or, worse, gimmicky. But from his tiny open kitchen in Somerville, Peter Ungár has managed to create one of the most refreshing and immersive dining experiences in the area. Driven by advanced technique and refreshing flavor combinations, the chef’s nine-course, beverage-paired tasting menus wow with offerings such as blow-torched Spanish mackerel with house-fermented black beans and yuzu. The counter-style seating, meanwhile, dissolves the barriers between the dining room and kitchen, making it all play out like a food nerd’s dream.