Small Bite: Veggie Galaxy

Photo by Dan Watkins

The idea of an all-vegetarian restaurant tends to make meat eaters shudder. But it’s not all about tempeh, seitan, and tofu at new Central Square diner Veggie Galaxy; here cautious types can dig into decent meatless fare like the crisp herbed fries ($3) and mac ’n’ cheese ($9); the latter was a bit too runny, but had a nice panko crust. The black bean and mushroom-chickpea burgers ($9–$10), however, fell flat, delivering on texture but lacking in flavor. And the tempeh “bacon” in the club sandwich ($9.50)? It won’t fool anyone looking for the real deal. There are instances where faux meat shines, like the smoked tofu that was a smart replacement for corned beef in the Reuben ($9). And the vegan desserts, like rich layered Taza chocolate cake ($5.25) and a convincing lemon meringue pie ($6.50, pictured), were downright delicious.

450 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-497-1513, veggiegalaxy.net.