Small Bite: China King

A new Chinatown restaurant has a scant eight tables and a few tasty dishes.
By ·
Steamed pork buns

Steamed pork buns. (Photo by Glenn Scott.)

The Vibe:
Located on Beach Street in Chinatown, China King is a homecoming of sorts for chef-owner Erwin Mei. Years ago, he won a cult following at the now-defunct King Fung Garden in Chinatown before moving the operation out to Brookline as King Fung Garden II. His latest venture is tiny, with bright red walls and a scant eight tables.

The Food:
For a low-key meal, start with the Szechuan-pickle-and-pork noodle soup ($6.50); the cloudy, super-porky broth benefited from a bright hit of the white vinegar and the sliced fresh ginger provided on the table. The sea jellyfish ($8.95) was chewy and flavorless instead of snappy and garlicky, and the chow fun noodles ($7.50) were clumpy and undersauced. Instead, go for the crunchy salt-and-pepper-fried shrimp with scallions ($11.95) and the succulent steamed pork buns ($6.95 for eight, pictured above).

The Verdict:
China King isn’t yet a destination in its own right, but those crispy shrimp and excellent pork buns make it a worthy place to keep in rotation.

China King, 60 Beach St., Boston, 617-542-1763.

Read More About:

Trending

  1. Desnuda Cocina and Bar Opens in Boston’s South End

  2. D16 Cocktail Bar Opens in Back Bay

  3. Coastal Greek Restaurant Kaia Opens in the South End

  4. Spy Bar, a ‘Listening Lounge,’ Opens in Boston’s South End

  5. Restaurants Archives – Boston Magazine