How to Cure Egg Yolks with Harvest’s Mary Dumont

In our April issue, we examined the latest permutation of the “put an egg on it” movement: the cured egg yolk. It turns out that yolks, which contain all of the rich, savory flavor of an egg, intensify even  further when allowed to chill out in a bed of salt (or sugar, or salt and sugar, or, in the case of O Ya, in a mixture of soy and miso) in the fridge and shrink and firm up a bit. Once cured and dried, the yolks can be shaved with a microplane like cheese, and in this form provide a beautiful finishing touch for pasta, salads, or fish.

At Harvest, chef Mary Dumont cures yolks and uses them as a topping for gnocchi and spring pea ravioli. “It’s an easy garnish, and it’s just really packed with so much flavor,” she says. Ahead, she offers a step-by-step tutorial for enterprising cooks that want to take on the task at home.* (Or, really, for anyone who just wants to see some egg-celent yolking around in action. Sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves.)

Curing Egg Yolks with Mary Dumont

Step 1

Grab a plastic tub or a glass baking dish, and evenly coat the bottom with kosher salt until the layer is about a half-inch thick. Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 2

Carefully separate eggs (Dumont suggests tapping eggs on the counter instead of the side of a bowl for less breakage) and gently space yolks evenly on the salt. Discard broken yolks (or use elsewhere). Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 2, Continued

While Dumont cures her yolks in salt only, other chefs use sugar as well, and sometimes herbs. Feel free to experiment, but note that curing times may change. (Note: Herbs may stick to the yolks.) Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 3

Once the yolks are evenly laid out, gently coat with salt until completely covered. Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 4

Once the yolks are fully encased, cover the dish with a lid or plastic wrap or foil, and store in the refrigerator in a place where the dish won't be disturbed. Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 5

Many variables (humidity, etc.) affect curing time; since she uses salt only, Dumont leaves yolks in the cure from 36-48 hours until the eggs hold their shape but are still tacky in the center.Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 6

Once ready (Dumont says the yolks should resemble "golden glass" or Werther's candies), rinse off the salt.Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 6, Continued

At this point, the jewel-like, still-tacky eggs can be pureed into a sauce or used as-is. In order to grate them as a garnish, however, they must be dried further. Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 7

Place cured yolks on a silpat or non-stick surface; Dumont strongly suggests using a dehydrator. Don't have one? Dry in a low oven (around 125 degrees) for several hours with the oven door cracked.Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 7, Continued

Dehydrate or dry until they look like the above photo; yolks should be completely dry. (Editor's note: it's best to invest in a dehydrator; things can go awry more easily in the oven.)Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 8

Dumont grates the finished product with a microplane over yukon gold potato gnocchi with spring garlic, sugar snap peas, braised radish, and nasturtium. Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 8, Continued

Don't have from-scratch gnocchi and designer herbs handy? Dumont suggests grating yolks over fried rice, Caesar salad, or spaghetti carbonara.Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Step 9

You've worked hard. So Instagram your work, the world deserves to see it! (Pictured: Mary Dumont, chef and 'grammer).Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

Note on Storage

Keep cured egg yolks in the refrigerator in an airtight container; we suggest grating them as needed.Photo by Fawn Deviney

Photo by Fawn Deviney

*Note: If using an oven to dehydrate the yolks, be sure to use a temperature that’s as close to 125 degrees Fahrenheit as possible; Dumont says that if your oven doesn’t go low enough, leave the door cracked open to lower the temperature (and monitor responsibly). We learned the hard way what happens when eggs are dried in an oven that’s too hot (hint: it ain’t pretty). Store cured yolks in an airtight container in the refrigerator.