Taqueria Takeover

Photograph by Bruce Peterson, styling by Nina Gallant

Naco Taco

“I have no desire to do [things] like pollo verde or carne asada—those voices are already out there,” chef Michael Scelfo proclaims. Instead, when the Alden & Harlow chef-­owner opens his Central Square ­taqueria this spring, he’ll take a different approach. Naco will have a sprawling ­patio that seats about 100; its ­creative tortas and tacos will be ­offered from a truck connected to the building; and the bar will serve a slew of ­specialty ­micheladas. As for the tacos: “We’ll have all kinds of stuff—lamb, beef, pork, and chicken—but not at all what you’re expecting,” Scelfo says. Translation? [1] Crunchy, whole-fried smelts with salted cabbage, avocado, and tomatillo crema, and [2] torched avocado topped with smoked-almond salsa and cilantro aioli. ­Naturally, the ingredients are piled up on house-made tortillas.

297 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, nacocentral.com.

Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar

From the team behind Southie hot spot ­Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant comes Loco, a taqueria and oyster bar that opened across the street in January. Chef de cuisine Tim Chatigny says that team-spitballing led to offbeat combos like the [3] shaved pork taco, which is augmented by harissa aioli, pickled green tomatoes, and bacon-­habanero relish. ­Others, though, were no-brainers for the hybrid shop—like the [4] fried oyster taco, which layers crunchy ­cornstarch-dredged Island Creeks with smoky charred scallions, a vinegary curtido slaw, house pickles, and a sriracha-lime aioli. “Those acid flavors ­really help the oysters come through, and that taco ­itself has a lot of New England flair,” Chatigny points out.

412 W. Broadway, Boston, 617-917-5626, locosouthboston.com.

Lone Star Taco Bar Cambridge

Long an Allston destination for street-style Tex-Mex, Lone Star will leap across the Charles to Cambridge this month, bringing its popular menu plus a more-­extensive bar program and a few brand-new items (hello, bacon-wrapped Sonoran hot dogs). “We’re planning to do a lot more specials and seasonal stuff,” chef Rian Wyllie says. “I’ve been messing around with different styles of chorizo, like chorizo verde and a Oaxacan style.” The New Deal Fish Market right across the street, meanwhile, will ­provide plenty of inspiration. Expect the Allston classics: [5] beer-battered white fish matched with ­mango-habanero ­aioli and pickled cabbage, and [6] beef brisket barbacoa, which is marinated with chilies and beer before it lands in a house-made tortilla with avocado crema, pickled red onion, and cotija cheese.

635 Cambridge St., Cambridge, lonestar-boston.com.

Plus! New Tacos from Not-New Restaurants

La Brasa: Lunchtime introduces two tacos: brisket with charred red onion and pickles; and mushroom “chorizo” with pickled peppers.

124 Broadway, Somerville, 617-764-1412, labrasasomerville.com.

Olé: Of the many new tacos to land at this Cambridge spot, the must-try is a pileup of pork belly, scallions, and jicama, with chipotle aioli and a touch of fish sauce.

11 Springfield St., Cambridge, 617-492-4495, olerestaurantgroup.com.