Thaiger Den Brings Upscale Thai to Malden

A spread of food at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Ancient Thai recipes meet modern techniques at Malden’s newest dining destination, Thaiger Den, from the team behind nearby Crying Thaiger. Although the new spot is the younger sibling, it feels all grown up—refined and elegant where seven-year-old Crying Thaiger is, by the team’s own definition, “rustic” and “humble.” It’s akin to a tiger cub growing into “a noble creature,” as owners Nisachon Thanangthirapong and Usanus Siritararatn put it. “We have refined our craft to create sophisticated, artfully presented dishes,” they wrote in a statement announcing the restaurant’s opening.

Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

In short, Malden’s newest arrival offers a time-traveling, region-hopping tale of Thai history and culture, told dramatically by way of smoke-filled cloches, broths poured tableside, raw A5 wagyu to be grilled on a lava stone, and an animal-print-clad staff who lean into the tiger theme. “We aim to present you with ancient recipes that they don’t do at other Thai restaurants in the United States,” says Thanangthirapong, who serves as the restaurant’s general manager, while Siritararatn, her husband, is CEO. “We use modern techniques to infuse flavor and enhance the taste of the food,” from smoke guns to sous vide.

Ma-hor (“galloping horses”) at Thaiger Den—balls of turnip and toasted peanut atop pineapple. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Whimsical Thaiger shrimp in a spicy lime dressing at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Bengal Thaiger satay at Thaiger Den—seasoned, minced chicken grilled on a lemongrass stalk, served with peanut sauce and pickles. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Take the marinated beef tongue, for example: Cooked via sous vide for 18 hours for maximum tenderness, it’s then smoked, grilled, and brought to the table under a smoke-filled covering alongside a roasted tomato relish (a twist on the more traditional eggplant) and the restaurant’s signature spicy jaew sauce. A simple dish on the surface, its preparation brings it to new heights—and might tempt even the most offal-averse.

Roasted spinach curry with flat iron steak at Thaiger Den, based on an ancient recipe. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Tossed crab rice at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Honked pork belly at Thaiger Den, a dish from Phuket originally inspired by Hokkien cuisine of China’s Fujian province. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

History buffs will appreciate dishes like the crowned watermelon bites, pla haeng tang mo, which dates back to the 14^th century and nods to cuisine served to the Thai royal family. There’s also massaman curry, which is over 300 years old. In its usual form, it’s ubiquitous at Thai restaurants in the United States, but here it takes on an irresistible new form, nestled inside flaky pot pie. And then there’s the jaew glazed rice, a 200-year-old dish that at first glance looks like fried rice, but it’s glazed with tangy jaew sauce when warm, not fried in oil. Diners have a choice of toppings, from wagyu to roasted cauliflower. (Try it with the juicy Berkshire pork cheek, cooked via sous vide and finished on the grill.)

Crowned watermelon bites (pla haeng tang mo) with a crispy topping of grilled, shredded tuna and shallots. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Massaman pot pie at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Jaew glazed rice with Berkshire pork cheek at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Big flaming pots of tom yum and tom kha soups, meant to serve three, hint that Thaiger Den is a great spot to bring a group, and the creative cocktail program seals the deal. Classic cocktails are enhanced with Thai flavors, from a jasmine tea-infused Old Fashioned to a mai-tai (called Mai-Thaiger, naturally) made with the rum-like Thai spirit Mekhong. Most notably, Thaiger Den is serving up a tom yum-inspired cocktail, Thaiger’s Tear, and a tom kha-inspired cocktail, Thaiger’s Milk, each infused with the appropriate blend of Thai spices. Also on the menu: Thailand’s three famous lagers (Singha, Leo, and Chang) and a few draft beers, plus a substantial mocktail selection, including a mango sticky rice-inspired drink and cheese-foam-topped Thai tea.

A flaming pot of jumbo freshwater prawn tom yum (serves three). / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Cocktails at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Mango sticky rice pudding with coconut ice cream at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

From the food and drinks to the expansive, well-appointed space (with hints of tiger-themed décor), Thaiger Den makes for a thrilling addition to Malden Center—and a unique destination in the broader Greater Boston Thai dining scene. And Thanangthirapong and Siritararatn aren’t stopping there: They’ll also open a Thai-Japanese izakaya, Phat Thaiger, at 166 Eastern Ave. in Malden (the former Omori space) later this year. While that’s in the works, we’ll be at the Den, sipping pandan-infused Vespers and indulging in boat noodle soup with wagyu.

Wagyu boat noodle soup at Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Thaiger Den. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal

Thaiger Den is currently open for dinner six nights a week (closed Tuesday) and lunch on Saturday and Sunday. Stay tuned for expanded hours, takeout, and delivery. 157 Pleasant St., Malden, 617-488-8645, instagram.com/thaiger_den.