A New England Traveler’s Guide to Saratoga Springs

The Oklahoma Training Track at the historical Saratoga Race Course. / Photo by Samantha Decker

For much of the 19th and 20th centuries, Saratoga Springs drew throngs of sophisticated travelers for two important (though arguably contrasting) reasons: gambling and wellness. On the one hand, there was the famed Saratoga Race Course, one of the oldest thoroughbred horse racetracks in America. Opened in 1863, it continues to take bets on some of the world’s most elite horses every summer. On the other, there’s the city’s namesake: its healing mineral springs. Scattered across the region, the carbonated water is said to cure whatever ails you, from muscle tension to headaches.

While its main draws have remained largely unchanged, it’s Saratoga Springs’ lively dining and drinking scenes that make it a must-visit destination this fall. Throw in an exceedingly charming historical hotel, and you have all the trappings of an exceptional autumn getaway.

The French toast at the Merc. / Photo by Shawn LaChapelle

EAT

You can’t take more than a few steps down Broadway without being reminded of Saratoga Springs’ rich history. The city’s Old World feel is expertly channeled at the Merc, with warm wood wainscoting, oil paintings, and tin ceilings gracing its antique interior. It’s a local favorite for brunch (brioche French toast with a side of deviled eggs, anyone?), but consider stopping in for dinner to tuck into braised beef short rib on a chillier fall night. Afterward, swing by the Coat Room for a nightcap—if you can find it, that is. The speakeasy is concealed behind a plain door labeled “Coat Room” in an ordinary downtown building. You’ll also want to make a detour to Lago by Druthers—a new outpost of one of the city’s most beloved breweries—to sip a “Golden Rule” blonde ale on the shores of Saratoga Lake. And beer nerds, take note: a Tree House Brewing Company location is also set to open near Saratoga Spa State Park soon.

A view of Broadway. / Photo by Samantha Decker

PLAY

Though racing season concludes early this month, there are still plenty of ways to enjoy its spirit in town. Do get tickets to the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame, which highlights the history and achievements of thoroughbred racehorses as well as their jockeys and trainers. A line of lawn-jockey statues donning their colorful racing silks guides you inside, where you’ll learn about everything from the Triple Crown and its intricate Tiffany & Co. trophies to the history of horse betting. Make time to experience the renovated Hall of Fame, where you can watch an immersive 16-minute film and interact with nine digital displays honoring the Hall of Famers.

One of Saratoga Springs’ many mineral water foundations. / Photo by Gail Stein

Next, prepare to be soothed by those naturally carbonated springs—both by drinking from them and bathing in them. You can taste the water for yourself at one of the 20 spigots dotting the city, each with its own mineral makeup and flavor profile. Many are located within Saratoga Spa State Park, including Orenda Spring, where the water is rich in iron, salt, and potassium iodide, and State Seal, a freshwater spring so beloved that fanatics bring jugs to fill with water. Also within the park is the Roosevelt Baths & Spa, part of the Gideon Putnam resort. Here, you can choose from treatments including massages, scrubs, body wraps, facials, and, famously, mineral baths. For the latter, you submerge yourself in the buoyant spring water fed from Lincoln Spring while lounging in a deep bathtub.

A room at Saratoga Arms. / Photo courtesy of Saratoga Arms

STAY

As the only historical hotel situated on Broadway, Saratoga Arms is the ideal place to revel in the charms of a bygone era. The circa-1870 Second Empire building showcases 31 luxe rooms and more than a dozen fireplaces. Watch the embers glow from the one in the stately first-floor sitting room—after enjoying hot spiced apple cider on the hotel’s sizable wraparound porch, naturally.

GETTING THERE

Your best bet is to hop in the car for a leisurely three-hour drive. Head west on the Mass. Pike for most of the trip before picking up I-87 in Albany. A few twists and turns will lead you to cruise right past the Saratoga Race Course before arriving downtown.

First published in the print edition of the September 2024 issue with the headline, “Saratoga Springs, New York.”