Vermont’s Mad River Valley Just Might Be the Coziest New England Getaway Right Now

We almost didn’t make it to our room at the Pitcher Inn. It was an unexpectedly snowy night this past December, and my husband, two young kids, and I had been driving just ahead of the plows the entire way from Massachusetts to Vermont, staring wide-eyed at all of the spinouts along the way. As we very slowly approached the tiny Green Mountain town of Warren, the downward grade of the slick, curvy back roads made us do a double take.

“I really think we should turn around,” my husband said, knowing full well we were already in too deep—literally and figuratively—to do that.

“We’re almost there!,” I insisted with the enthusiasm of a cheerleader who’d had one too many energy drinks. “We can do it!”

Spoiler alert: We did make it. (Pro tip for anyone heading here in a storm: invest in some good snow tires). And what a lucky thing we did.

When we awoke the next morning at the Pitcher Inn, there was a fresh powder coating of snowflakes on everything the eye could see. From our perch in the Hayloft Suite—a separate, family-friendly space just a few steps from the adults-only inn complete with wood-paneled walls, a wood-fired stove, a rocking chair, and plenty of stable-inspired accents—it felt like we were looking out into a real-life snow globe.

Courtesy the Pitcher Inn

Which is fitting, because this area is truly a winter wonderland, especially for skiers. Sugarbush Resort is just a few miles away, spanning two mountain areas—Lincoln Peak and Mount Ellen—with a wide array of options for both novice and expert skiers and snowboarders, plus lots of apres action. Mad River Glen, meanwhile, is ideal for the hard-core powder hounds, with challenging terrain, narrow trails, and natural snow. (The Pitcher Inn recently announced a package that includes an all-day pass at either spot, with the option of arranging a ski guide to provide concierge service while on the mountain). For those who prefer a more laidback winter-sports experience, Ole’s Cross-Country Center offers 30 miles of trails to peacefully snowshoe or cross-country ski.

Lawson’s Finest Liquids / Courtesy

Non-skiers, too, will find plenty to keep them busy in the Mad River Valley. Just a few miles away from the mountain action, in Waitsfield, the pilgrimage-worthy brewery Lawson’s Finest Liquids (155 Carroll Rd.) serves up Sip of Sunshine and other top-rated IPAs, pilsners, and stouts, as well as a full menu of snacky delights. The shopping in Waitsfield is plentiful, including at the Mad River Taste Place—an artisanal grocery store featuring local maple, honey, chocolate, cheese and more—and various places selling stylish, well-made clothing and art. (Check out the Artisans’ Gallery, which showcases the work of more than 150 Vermont artists in an 1830s storefront.) 

We opted to bring the kids over the Sugarbush Golf Course, where we unloaded the well-used L.L. Bean sled we’d brought from home and went joyfully gliding down the gently sloping terrain. While Waitsfield’s recently renovated open-air ice-skating rink, aptly dubbed the Skatium, wasn’t open when we visited in December, it’s now fully operational and available for use on weekend afternoons and evenings.

Tracks, the basement tavern at the Pitcher Inn. / Courtesy

And then there are the offerings at the Pitcher Inn, which alone could fill an entire afternoon and evening. The associated Warren Store across the street is a charming place to grab gourmet sandwiches for lunch and browse an array of Vermont-made artisanal foods, drinks, and even clothing and accessories. The wellness center offers a variety of massages, as well as red-light therapy, a treatment that can help improve skin appearance and treat muscle pain. Dining at the inn is also a standout, including at the more-casual, subterranean tavern Tracks and the candlelit main dining room, where you can enjoy soul-warming dishes from executive chef Jacob Ennis—think braised short-rib agnolotti with preserved tomato sauce and chestnut risotto—in front of a roaring wood-burning fire.

At the end of the weekend, we made our way to the dining room once again for our final country breakfast, which comes gratis with every stay. After several days of winter weather, the clouds had finally parted, and the pure-white snow sparkled in the sunshine. When we had finished tucking into our omelets and pancakes with fresh berries, our extremely friendly table attendant packed up the flaky, buttery homemade croissants that come with every meal for the road—one that, thankfully, was much easier to navigate heading back south.

The Pitcher Inn, 275 Main St., Warren, Vermont, pitcherinn.com, 802.496.6350